Saturday, October 27, 2018

Agra: home of the Taj Mahal

We are getting to the point where a lot of Indian towns/cities are looking the same, and that's certainly true as we drive into Agra from the airport.  Our driver is a manic honker and traffic weaver, and tells us he "usual drive comfortable" never drives like this, but he's in a hurry for another client.  He repeats this driver mantra over and over, working the usual hard sell to have us contract him to drive us around town during our stay.  He insists that Andres take note of his phone number, then drops us at the hotel, and predictably, we'll not see him again.

In the afternoon we get our bearings, thanks to our ever more faithful friend, Google Maps, figure out where the ticket booth is for the Taj and get a look at our surroundings.  After an unremarkable dinner, we head to bed.  We have to leave the hotel by about 5:20am in order to get the sunrise/early morning light said to be special when visiting the Taj.

We walk there in the dark, through fairly quiet streets,  past shuttered shops,  and secure our tickets fairly quickly despite a decent line--although we are in the line for foreigners, which tends to move a tad more quickly.  But despite tips that it is relatively quiet in the morning, there are hordes at the actual entrance.  We get in line at the East Gate to the complex, split into two lines(female and male), and go through the security and in winding lines.  Not too bad, but there is a lot of pushing and shoving and shouting, none of which I understand at all.  We're in!

The building is breathtaking and truly spectacular, and the grounds are beautifully kept and close to immaculately clean.  We spend about three and a half hours walking around, then finally into the mausoleum amidst loud whistling from the guards who are doing their level best to rush everyone through.  A short stop at the tiny museum to see the exquisite miniature portraits of Shah Jahan and his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal--for whom the Taj is the world's most lavish tomb and then we slowly ramble out, as non-stop hordes of humanity continue in an interminable queue.  The next day we also make a night visit to the Taj, as we are here during the full moon--during which it is possible--although difficult--to secure tickets to see the Taj under the moonlight. It's a little underwhelming as there is still too much back light from the city and sadly, very poor air quality.

During our remaining day, we take a tuk-tuk to visit the gorgeous "Baby Taj", which is a precursor to the Taj Mahal, and was actually built to inter the remains of Mumtaz Mahal's grandfather.  From there it's on to the massive Agra Fort, originally built by the first Mughal emperor of the region, Akbar.

See picture of the three visits below:
Taj Mahal:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/3HQ8YLwJFzoauyg87

Baby Taj & Agra Fort:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/T5coSYeT8rC1mPyG9

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